To put my arrival in Germany in context, I should say that I was busy for about a month straight right before I left. From May 1st to May 22nd, I prepared for and took 5 final exams (worth 100% of my grade), packed up and moved out of my apartment at school, unpacked and saw family in a whirlwind at home, packed for school (since it is a tight turnaround when I get back) and for Germany, wrote a law review write-on note and did a bluebook quiz (if you don't know what that is, be glad). So when I say that I was exhausted, it wasn't just from the flight; it was weeks of long days and short nights and stress and detail-oriented focus coming to a head.
Still, even in my sleep-deprived state, I was PUMPED to arrive in Germany. I knew that we would be leaving that day for a long weekend in France, which may seem like a lot, but I like to hit the ground running and I wasn't driving so I knew I could sleep in the car. The weekend, and GETTING TO Germany, had been my "light at the end of the tunnel" as I was heading into finals and dealing with other stress. I was glad to be there, to see my aunt, and to start the adventures. I showered, we packed quickly, and off we went. We were headed to Château Thierry, France, which is a larger town near Belleau Wood, where we would attend services and ceremonies commemorating the WWI Battle of Belleau Wood over Memorial Day.
I got my nap in the car and we arrived in Château-Thierry to a hotel full of Marines -- literally, the Marines had booked the whole hotel for those attending and participating in the ceremonies (we'd probably never stay in a safer place!)! We explored the town a bit, at dinner, and hit the hay. I slept for 12 hours! We got up and headed to Belgium (about 2 hours away) the next day. We ended up only about 15 minutes from the dig site where I had spend summer 2010, and we went to Chimay, known for their beer and cheese. We tried the sampler platter of each and had trouble choosing a favorite! It was a relaxing and fun day, and when we returned to Château Thierry, we shared dinner with some friends of my Aunt in a local restaurant. There were lots of Americans -- and American Marines -- in town, and the locals all knew why! It was pretty cool to see, actually! After dinner at the hotel, we sat in the hotel bar and socialized; talking to Marine Corps Generals and young enlisted guys in the same place. It was pretty cool to be a part of, and to see how important the tradition of recognizing this battle, and this place, was to all of them, from different backgrounds, young and old. I had been excited before but my excitement was growing!
If you don't know a lot about the Battle of Belleau Wood, I suggest you check it out. It is a very important battle for the Marines, as it was Marines who were at the tip of the German offensive and lost many young men over the course of the three week battle. There were French Soldiers and U.S. Army troops there, too, but for the Marines this is particularly special. It is also where they earned their nickname, the Bulldogs, since they were so tenacious in repeatedly retaking the strategically placed Wood. In holding the line here, the Allied forces kept the Germans from marching on Paris, merely 50 miles away, and it is said that it is the battle that turned the tide.
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| 21 Gun Salute! |
Sunday morning was the day of the ceremony. We came down to the lobby for breakfast to find dozens of Marines milling about in their dress blues. It was quite a sight! The weather had been drizzly and chilly Friday and Saturday, but Sunday morning was the kind of morning that you could tell the weather would be perfect. As nice as the weather was for those of us that had driven over, it also meant that the Marines were neither sweating nor rained-on when they were doing the ceremony, and that hundreds of local French people were able/ willing to come to the ceremony as well. I had not expected the level of involvement the French would have, but it was really cool.
We had about an hour after arriving at the cemetery before the ceremony started. It was gorgeous. The sun was just right and the grass was cut perfectly. The French stood flag on one side and the American flag on the other; the chapel in the middle, and thousands of white stone crosses and stars marked the graves of the brave soldiers who fought for their country. A solemn scene, but beautiful, too. It was beautiful that the Marines have so many traditions attached to this place, that the Commandant of the Marine Corps, French Senators and dignitaries, and other important people spoke at the ceremony and laid wreaths on graves. It was beautiful that the Marine Band was there, with the French band. It was beautiful that everyone was well dressed and the grounds were well kept. But it was also, maybe even more, beautiful that the French attendees brought their kids, and explained that each grave had a French and American flag that day because they had fought together; it was beautiful that Marines brought their kids and families to learn about the battle and learn to be grateful for and respectful of those men who have fought for our freedom; it was beautiful that young soldiers laid wreaths, too, and that the local high schoolers had done research projects about family members in the battle or the surrounding town, and wrote poems about the Great War. It was so apparent that it was important to recognize the history of this horrific and important site. It was only slightly less apparent how much effort was put in to carrying this memory forward. It was a very cool day.
At the ceremony, I was impressed by the dedication of the French soldiers who had fought to defend their home and country for nearly 4 years by the time of the Battle of Belleau Wood, and by the American Soldiers who had left their families to cross the Atlantic and assist our French Allies in the defense of their homeland when they needed it most. Both groups fought to defend freedom and democracy that our two nations share.
I did not know, during the ceremony, that my own Great Grandfather Frank Ransford had fought on that battlefield 96 years earlier. I learned that when I was talking to my grandfather later in the week. My great Grandfather had been an ammunition truck driver for the U.S. Army. I knew that he was in France in WWI, but it was only later that I had been standing on the same ground he fought for 96 years ago, delivering ammunition to the troops on the front lines. I never knew my Great Grandfather, but I hope that somehow he was able to look in on me at that moment; to see his Great Granddaughter stand on land that was still free and democratic, thanks to his efforts and those of his fellow soldiers. Frank Ransford made it home to the United States, but many of his friends and countrymen did not. The Memorial Day ceremony at Belleau Wood was beautiful, and it made me think, just like a memorial service probably should.
After the ceremony, we made our way on foot to the TINY town of Belle Eau. There, we would find the famous Bulldog Fountain, and would share a more upbeat reception with refreshments and treats for all. We were lucky to be some of the first people there, so we got to take our picture with the fountain before the sea of White-hat-wearing Marines descended on it to take vials of water, wash their hands, and even dunk their faces in it.
On the whole, it was a really great few days and it was wonderful to see and be a part of something that is so steeped in tradition and historical significance. Plus, it was REALLY cool for me to find out later that my Great Grandfather had actually been there!
Next post (hopefully in the next few days) will cover the rest of our long weekend in France!
~SKS~
