The Magic of Paris

We are in the Christmas season, and one of my favorite Christmas tales is The Polar Express.  My first memory of the story is from my first grade class, when Mrs. Shubat read the book to us, but I also enjoyed the movie.  For some reason, that story always warms my heart.  I especially love the last lines: "At one time, most of my friends could hear the bell, but as the years passed, it fell silent for all of them.  Even [his sister] Sarah found one Christmas that she could no longer hear its' sweet sound.  Though I've grown old, the bell still rings for me, as it does for all who truly believe." 

In a way, Paris is a little bit like that bell.  The city really is magical in its' beauty and its' unique charm.  When we first arrived, everyone was simply thrilled to be in Paris.  We were excited about the museums, monuments, cafés, and culture that we would have access to, and about the freedom and independence that our NaviGo cards (metro passes) gave us.  Everything was new and exciting and beautiful, and we all truly believed in the magic of Paris.  I remember waking up and looking out my window at the very top of the Eiffel Tower (the only part that I could see when the leaves were still on the trees) every morning, and then looking at it every night before bed.  I loved to look out and see it - just a little reminder that I was in fact in Paris, like pinching myself to be sure I wasn't dreaming, but without the annoying little pain on my forearm.  Looking out my window at the tower was for me what ringing the bell was for the little boy from The Polar Express: a little gesture to be sure that I still believed in the magic. 

In a city as amazing as Paris, I thought the magic would always be there.  I really didn't think that looking out the window for the top of the Eiffel Tower would ever get old, and it didn't exactly, but at some point, I somehow stopped noticing.  When I got up in the morning, I still looked out the window, but rather than looking towards the Tower, I would look down at the street, checking the weather by looking to see whether people had coats on or umbrellas with them.  Then, I looked out my window one night this week and saw almost the whole Eiffel Tower, which was sparkling since it was 9:00 PM, that I realized I had stopped looking at it daily, and hadn't even noticed when the leaves had fallen, leaving much more of it exposed.  

At first, I was disappointed, thinking that I had stopped seeing the magic. The times when I had gotten upset at the crowds, or the metro, or little cultural differences rushed into my head. I thought about how, throughout the semester, more and more American students seemed to have stopped believing in the magic of Paris, just like the boy's friends who stopped hearing the bell. But when I looked out my window and saw the Eiffel Tower sparkling, even on a cloudy night, it brought a smile to my face, and I slowed down to watch it for a few more seconds.  It was then that I realized that just because I had stopped looking for the magic every day didn't mean I was no longer capable of seeing it.  After all, the little boy still hears his magic bell as he grows old, even though he probably doesn't ring it every day. By stopping to watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle that night, I proved to myself that I still believe in the magic of Paris, and in my last week here, I intend to look for that magic every single day!

On Tuesday, I went with my friend Anna to Café de Flore.  Those who are interested in the impressionist movement or early 20th century thinkers (or those of you who have seen Midnight in Paris), may recognize the name.  This café, along with it's neighbor and biggest rival Les Deux Magots, became a popular meeting place for authors, painters, and celebrities alike in the 1920's and 30's, and still draws tourists today! Plus, the hot chocolate was amazing (though admittedly not as good as Angelina's). 

Fun Fact #36: The Prix de Flore, a literary prize which was founded in 1994 by Frédéric Beigbeder, is awarded each year in a ceremony in the Café.  The prize celebrates young authors of works in French and is awarded by a panel of journalists. 

Friday, I went to visit Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, which are both HUGE, famous department stores on Boulevard Haussmann in Paris' 8th arrondissement.  Both stores have really cool architecture, and since both stores have impressive Christmas decorations, it is the perfect season to visit.  The 5 story (fake) tree in Galeries Lafayette is probably the most impressive display. This year's theme is Rock'n Mode (Rockin' Fashion).  Besides the beautiful decorations and architecture, the many designer store displays added to the beauty... who wouldn't want Chanel under their tree? 

Fun Fact #37:  The food in these places was actual, quality food... I guess I should have anticipated.  They each had their own restaurant, and as of December 1st, Galeries Lafayette even boasts a branch of Angelina café!  

I took this photo when I looked out my window to see the Eiffel Tower sparkling! It does this for five minutes on the hour at 20h, 21h, 22h, 23h, 0h and 1h every night! 

Saturday night, I went to Le Relais de Venise with my friends.  We got there at 19h and waited in line to eat until about 20h.  It was chilly, but with good conversation the time passed quickly, and in any case the food was so worth it! My friend Sarah and I had been before, but Adrian and Matthias were first-time visitors! Everyone agreed that it was delicious, and it was a really great night! 

Sorry there weren't too many interesting pics this week... I could have showed you pictures of what I have been up to, but I didn't think photos of me preparing for a lit paper, history essay test, art history paper, art history test, grammar test, or a grammar writing test (last Tuesday, last Wednesday, tomorrow, also tomorrow, Tuesday, and Wednesday, respectively) would be of much interest! Luckily I finish on Wednesday and will have Thursday - Saturday to soak up as much of Paris as possible before I head home!!! 

Make it a great week! 

~SKS~

Family

When I was in high school, I had a wonderful opportunity to study abroad in St. Brieuc, Bretagne, France with the Indiana University Honors Program in Foreign Languages.  The experience is one that I will not forget.  It changed my perspective on so many things and forced me to grow.  It is thanks in large part to that program that I am still taking French and studying abroad now.  A major factor in why I loved my summer in St. Brieuc so much was my host family.  They were a real blessing, and an answer to my mother's prayers for a welcoming family into which I fit perfectly!  Leaving their driveway in 2008, even when I was in the car with my parents (who had come to visit after the program ended and were able to meet my family), I still cried; I was worried that I would never see these people with whom I had been so close for 8 weeks again.  

Happily, this fear was unwarranted.  I kept contact with them after I left, was able to visit them last summer for a few days, and have been planning to spend a weekend with them during this semester.  This weekend I (finally) had the opportunity to visit them!  As everyone is older now, the family is a bit more spread out, with the oldest, my brother Yoann, teaching in a high school and middle school in Brest, my sister Klervi in her first year of college preparing to be a doctor in Rennes, and the youngest, my sister Sterenn, at a boarding high school for the week and only home on the weekends.  I was really lucky as, for the first time in several months, ALL of my former host siblings were home! I really felt like little had changed.  As soon as I walked in the door, it was just like I was home.  (Only one slight difference - when I was there before, I was actually staying in Yoann's room, and going up the stairs and turning directly into his bedroom proved to be a hard habit to break.  I never actually went in, but it did cause some laughs when it took me a few seconds to realize what I had done!) 

This weekend was really relaxing and great fun.  It was so good to see everyone again!  It had been a year and a half since I had seen any of them, and since Klervi was in Florida studying abroad when I was there last summer, it had been 3 and a half years since I had seen her!  Our time together felt exactly the same as spending time with family that you haven't seen in a while.  In fact, my host mom introduced me to a friend of hers in saying, "This is an American host student that lived with us three years ago and now she is part of our family."  I loved that this weekend gave me the opportunity to reconnect with them, and, furthermore, to be reminded that 'family' doesn't always have to mean the people that you are actually related to!  I am really blessed to have great family on both sides of the Atlantic!! 

On Friday, I met with some friends to experience Angelina, which is a café that is best known for it's hot chocolate and delectable desserts.  You may be able to see how thick the hot chocolate is... it tasted DELICIOUS, just like melted chocolate.  We actually think it may be that, as it became solid as it cooled.  The Dessert was a chocolate cake covered with chocolate mousse, which was then covered in chocolate fondant-y covering (the square part) and then that was topped with chocolate ganache.  My Ransford side definitely came through as I powered through the chocolate!  

It was a great day for a walk around the city afterwards (especially since we had so much chocolate to work off!) so we wandered to Place Vendôme.  This square is now known for the luxury shops that are there, and for the Ritz hotel.  

Fun Fact #34: The column in Place Vendôme was erected by Naploéon to commemorate the Battle of Austerlitz but was torn down in May of 1861.  It has (obviously) since been re-erected.  I wonder where they kept it when it wasn't on display! 

As we wandered further, this statue of Jeanne d'Arc caught my eye as it glowed in the sun! This is directly across from the Tuileries Gardens, which are in front of the Louvre.  

On the first Friday of every month, the Cathedral of Notre Dame holds an elaborate service for the adoration of some of its' most precious relics, which include bits of the cross that Jesus died on and the crown of thorns that he wore.  My friend and I went to check it out.  While I am not convinced that the relics are really what they claim to be, it was still impressive to see so many people in the church and to see the elaborate ceremony.  Regardless of whether or not they are real, they are pretty strong symbol of faith. In this picture, people are lining up to kiss the crown of thorns.  Imagine it with incense everywhere and hymns, sung by nuns and monks and accompanied by the organ, with sunlight coming in through stained glass windows. 

Fun Fact #35: The Catholic Church, despite 'numerous studies and historical and scientific research efforts' has been unable to prove the authenticity of the Crown, but still continues the services since the crown has been an object of adoration and a symbol of Christian theology for 16 centuries.  

A picture to end the wonderful weekend reconnecting with family! Left to right, my mom, Marie-Helène, Maeve (Yoann's girlfriend), Klervi, Yoann, Me, and Sterenn! It was so great to see them!! 

Remember to be thankful for your family this week! 

~SKS~